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I meet a young couple from New Hampshire at breakfast at the B+B who are heading south. The
young man has visited his grandfather's house in County Donegal, which is now roofless and being used by sheep. After the tedious job of packing the bike, I stop at the post office and head out of town, which turns out to be a long grade up of two miles. I didn't read about that in any of the cycling books. In fact, when the books say "flat" you can be sure that means at least, "rolling." This is not Kansas. There are hills all over Ireland. Even when I travel the valleys between the mountains, I can be sure there
will be hills. The day dawned grey as usual but stayed dead grey - not so usual for this trip. Usually I can expect some sun in the afternoon. Without sun it stays fairly cool this time of spring, and so I feel cool most
of the day. That coolness seems to tire me a bit more today. By noon I am ready for coffee and scone, but all I find is a pub. So I have a Carlsburg beer instead and chat with the folks. The pub is in Pontoon which is on a lake, and there is a 28lb. pike mounted on the wall. For a minute there I think I am in Wisconsin. The route out of Westport is a highway and scenery is fair, but it is much more pleasant when I turn onto Highway 310 out of Castlebar. Thereafter I have lakes and mountains to keep me company. Ballina turns out to be a tired and dirty town. Except for the River Moy which runs through it, it is very forgettable. However, a local fellow tells me to check out the
"purpose built" Salmon Weir Hostel, and I find it delightfully located on river rapids, and the wonderful sound of water will lull me to sleep tonight. I have a private room and feel my belongings and bike will be safe, but I'm not sure why my shower water is cold. I'll
have to find out about that. They also serve continental breakfast for £2 which I will do. This sort of thing may work out well for cousin Mike and me because typically they have cooking facilities here, and if we shared a room it would probably only cost us about £10 each. But
hostels must really be scouted out carefully. Some can be old, grungy, and not very secure. I'll check Eden Hill Hostel in Sligo; it is given high marks in my travel book. The 35 mile trip is pleasantly concluded with a stroll and dinner and reading in bed to the sound of
River Moy rapids. (249 miles) |
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