Wed. 4/9 (Doolin to Kinvara) Galway County
         

     
         I fill up on Irish breakfast and settle up with Katerina at the Riverfield B+B, and there is some mix-up because I do not have a single room.  She charges me the single subsidy for using a double.  It still isn't bad at £20 per night.  I load up and head for the hills of the Burren under bright sun.  Today, for the first time, I follow Robin Krause's directions from his book on biking Ireland.  It works out quite well and his observations about places along the way are useful.  Except for a side trip to Cong from Galway which will take me off his tour routes, it appears I'll be able to spend much of my trip up to Donegal using his book.  The stretch from Doolin to Kilfenora is wonderfully quiet.  And while the sun is out, the wind is cool and increases in velocity throughout the day.  Especially noticeable is the difference in temperature from Doolin valley to the hills out of Doolin and especially in The Burren.  It is probably at least 10^° cooler outside of Doolin in the hills.  The wind nearly stops me on the occasional flats.

The road rolls a lot but the light traffic and the occasional forested stretches make the ride pleasant.  Kilfenora has a good museum gift shop and Burren Presentation for the visitor.  I spend an hour in town, mail some cards, and head out to The Burren.  The wonderful Leamaneh Castle is located just at the beginning of The Burren, a 100 square mile section of limestone rock, much of which is exposed.  In the 17^th Century when Cromwell was doing his marauding of the Irish countryside he complained about The Burren, "Not enough wood to hang a man; not enough water to drown him, and not enough soil to bury him."  Yet, as barren as it seems, the area is home to 3/4 of the flora species of the country, including Mediterranean ferns and arctic wildflowers.  Scientists have their theories about how such diverse and unexpected plants got there but certainly they are a great curiosity.  The region also has a number of dolmen, ancient burial sites comprised of four large, thin rocks - one in back and two longer sides, with a flat stone serving as a roof.  Much of this stretch includes some serious climbing but with the exception of a couple of tour buses the traffic is irrelevant. The ride is chilling, in spite of the workout I am getting.  The hills cloud over and it even looks like rain is possible and the wind continues to roar.

A 15^th Century Carran Church is located high above a broad, green field below; often valleys in The Burren are strikingly green in contrast to the monotonous grey of higher elevations.  After a long coast into Ballyvaughn where I buy a scone, apple, and pop, I set off on the last 12 mile leg of the day, basically following the coast of Kinvara Bay. 

The B+B I have reserved by phone turns out to be about two miles from town and nobody is home, so I bike into town, have tea and scone, and stop at the Collins B+B on the edge of Kinvara.  Josey Collins offers me a double room for the price of a single with no subsidy.  I'm the only guest, and the place is beautiful, trimmed in teak wood with doors to match.  The electric blanket feels good in addition to her heat register, which, by the way serves as a wonderful place to dry light clothes, e.g., socks and bvd's.  Kinvara is a beautiful little village on the Galway Bay; it has a nice, green quay with benches, and it is a clean, brightly painted burg.  I have a special dinner tonight at Partners, plaice (flounder) pan-sauted, carrots, pickled red cabbage, tea, sparkling water, and brownie.  I stroll the village and waterfront, go home, write until 9:30 p.m., read, and fall to sleep after a good biking day of 40 miles.  (105 miles)

    

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