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The day begins with a good looking cumulus-cluttered sky, but we aren't expecting anything wonderful because the papers and TV weather forecast is for "broken weather", i.e., off and on showers. So after breakfast we store our rain gear in one bike
pack and set off for the Sheep Head Peninsula. The route follows along the shoreline generally, although it only occasionally touches it. The north side of the peninsula is quickly fairly rugged and the further west we travel the more mountainous and the narrower the road gets until it is really a one
car lane, but thank goodness we only see a few cars during the majority of our 38 mile day. We aren't out more than 6-8 miles before Mike has a flat. He's often behind me, so I don't think too much about it until I finish some photos, and I still don't see him. However, I just assume he is having one of
his numerous equipment or mechanical problems - gear shift trouble, pack loosening, etc., or just one of his many video breaks. I retrace a ¼ mile and there he is trying to get his tire off - he has no tool; I'm not sure how this is going to be done. I get my tire tool out and after much difficulty Mike remembers he
has not removed all the air. We quickly replace the tube and are on our way. Going west on the north side of the peninsula is difficult because there are some steep hills and we are "eating" the wind, but the route affords great views of the bay and the mountains. We are interrupted only once by a car and a second time by three cows, who are a little skittish and are anxious to get beyond us. We take a wrong turn and end up going on a narrow, rough, third class road. We stop at a farm, and the farmer gets us straightened out, gives us water,
and instead of continuing toward the actual Sheep Head tip which is 6 or 7 winding miles ahead, we turn back toward the town of Kilcrohane after a long ascent and then a wonderful switchback descent into the town. We find a pub with an outdoor area, order beer and sandwiches and enjoy the warm and sunny outdoor table until it starts raining again. However, from this point to the end of our day (1:30 - 4:30 p.m.) we have no more rain, just a few threatening moments. The south side of this peninsula is generally flat except for the last 4 miles which are a long, consistent ascent. The day is marked by quiet roads with scenic mountain vistas and ocean views. We also view Whiddy Island in Bantry Bay, which is an ugly repository for oil in round storage tanks. Some years ago there was a huge
explosion on the island and 30 people were killed - only recently has Shell seen fit to return to business here. We see a tower castle on our way home and are surprised by its great condition. We enjoy some free mussels at O'Keefe's pub - part of the tradition of the festival. Everybody hands out complimentary steamed-in-Murphy's mussels. We have dinner at the Vickery Hotel, and we get more mussels on
the house. Our evening is nicely concluded with a visit to the band shell where Sharon Shannon and her 5 piece group is performing. The music is excellent and Mike buys a tape at the local store of the group. We head home under a light rain and consider our mostly-dry day a great success. (899 miles) |
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